Moments With Students

Although we have a few disagreements with management about contract details (Joe finally sat down with them on Saturday to go through the whole contract, due to a discrepancy of opinions about an upcoming holiday.  We were supposed to go to Mt. Nemrut this week, but they need us to work.  Seeing as how money is a little tight- what with the joining of the gym- we agreed to work in exchange for an extra two days off whenever we want it, so we are quite pleased with the deal.) Turkish students truly are an enjoyable group of people to teach.  Of course you get the odd class here and there that are too shy to speak, or a few students here and there that are anti-social enough to make things slightly awkward, as a whole they are hard-workers who are very keen to learn English.

               

            I hesitate to write much about my students for confidentiality reasons, but since most of them are university students in their twenties, (thrown in with some teenagers and careered adults) they are also in my age bracket which makes teaching them very pleasant.  My students love to have me read off their names from the class registrar (mostly so they can laugh at my pronunciation, but I figure that is a fair trade off for me occasionally laughing at them) and Turkish students love to keep up a teasing banter within the classroom (both from me and to me) that allows for a more relaxed atmosphere which I am hoping makes them more comfortable to speak English.   Last week was a good week for making friends.  One of the local teachers, Elif, and I are becoming friends ( I hope).  

Coffees and Chocolates

             On Thursday, a few of my students (all girls in their early twenties) invited us (E and I) to go see a movie at the mall.  Naturally I said yes, although the movie in question (Transcendence) is not usually a movie I would pay to see, but making friends requires some sacrifices.  I met them at the mall an hour early and we had coffee (Turkish with a hint of caramel- delicious) and then bought chocolates and chocolate covered dried apricots (a delicious delicacy in Malatya), insisting I take them home for Joe to try.  They got two for one tickets at the cinema (refusing to let me pay) and then we took photos and selfies for half an hour (I never realized the cinema was so exciting, and it is a bit tedious to have your picture taken a thousand times when your nose resembles Rudolph’s and you can barely keep your eyes open.  The movie itself was decent (they cut the movie off halfway through for a ten minute break) although the first half was better than the second. 

                

           We went for dinner afterwards, although the cold had suppressed my appetite and I had already had a donair for lunch.  My limit on fast food for the day, so I had a tea while they ate from the food court and soup when I got home.  We parted ways after dinner, Elif and Pinar heading to the bus stop with me (unnecessary but sweet) and then I came home and collapsed.  It was the first time I have spent time with a big group of girls in ages, and it was a lot of fun.

                

More fall beauty

              Other than my students, you find pockets of English in unexpected places.  The weekends are insane- with classes back to back until 4pm- when I finally have time to grab a quick lunch before my last class.  This Saturday, I went to Kral Doner (so far my favourite doner shop in Malatya) and they recognized me (the perks of being one of the only two nonTurkish people in this city) and put in my order.  I was waiting when one of the cooks called me over and started asking me questions in English, and asking what I want on my doner (this has never happened before) and it was really surprising and really fun at the same time.  I felt a little guilty because my stereotypes of who speak English do not extend to fast food workers- but I am happy to have that stereotype blasted away!  I have also been getting to know Habib better, who runs the canteen upstairs.  Since he doesn’t speak English, I will go have tea with him and practice my Turkish.  The other teachers are always up for a conversation here and there and I recently started a class with a bunch of Afghani students who are planning to come by for tea during the week.  Joe is playing football with the male teachers on Sunday (I have been invited to ‘watch’) so he is getting some outside stimuli as well which is always a good thing.  Hopefully things will continue this way- it is nice making friends.

Autumn Begins

It's starting to feel like fall on the canal street.

The weather is starting to take a turn for the cold.  There is snow on the mountains (granted they are far in the distance) and at 6am on a Saturday, when the alarm goes off and you attempt to crawl out of bed (and your apartment has no heating) in order to go to work and teach six classes back to back, you find yourself cursing the cold and dreading the knowledge that it will indeed be getting colder.  The long weekends (indeed the majority of our weekly hours take place on the weekend) were made further frustrating this past weekend when our schedules got changed three times that day (for that day’s classes). I ended up running back and forth between schools multiple times in order to teach all my classes- which, while good exercise, is not overly enjoyable.  There was no time for lunch, no time for water, no time for anything but running back and forth like a chicken with your head cut off and then teaching class after class after class.  At least I knew this ahead of time.  Joe was given four minutes (count ‘em- 1-2-3-4) notice that he had a new class starting at the other school.  He ran, didn’t plan, taught the class.  Not ideal, but apparently they do this all the time so I suppose we will just have to be ready.  Needless to say, we went to the pub when classes finished that day in an effort to slightly abate the frustration.  Sunday was no better.  They gave me a new first class (adding another run between schools) that wasn’t a first class because Joe had taught them the previous week but no one had bothered to tell us.  It is really irritating to teach the wrong lesson and look like a fool because our managers don’t see the importance in giving us information.  We never know how many students we will have in a new class (prepare for anywhere from 10-30) and in the case of new kids classes this past weekend, we were told to ‘teach whatever you want.’  No curriculum whatsoever.  Needless to say by Sunday afternoon, we were decidedly pooped.  Joe got wrangled in to playing football (soccer) that night (girls don’t play soccer in Turkey) and with a dropping temperature of one degree, I opted to stay home in the warmth rather than go ‘watch’.  I was sound asleep when he got home.

Turkish coffee with a side of Turkish delight.

                

                That brings us to Monday.  It was a lazy morning indeed as we took our time getting ready, only to receive a text from Mustafa that he was going to be in the center that day and would like to meet up.  Naturally we said yes, dropped our bags off at the school (I dropped them off- Joe was too stiff to climb the stairs) and then went for a walk (he showed us some key establishments in Malatya) before ending up at a café for lunch and tea with him and some of his friends.  As per always, time with Mustafa is highly enjoyable, and even when the conversation turned to religion and Joe’s stance as an atheist (something people in this country do not understand) it was a civil conversation that was quite entertaining to listen to.  Mustafa translated for his friends (a few of whom speak decent English but couldn’t quite follow the conversation) and it was quite late by the time we got back to the school to finish lesson planning.  When we got there, however, Elif (one of my local teachers) was in early, so in an effort to make friends, I went for a tea upstairs with her while Joe finished his lessons.  It was by far the most social day we have had so far.

                

              On Tuesday, we decided to join a gym at the hotel not far from us.  They have a pool and a sauna and everything else you need to keep warm for the winter, and although paying six months up front (similar to Indonesia) is extremely painful on the wallet, we decided it was worth it.  Hopefully we will be able to get our money’s worth out of the place.

              

           

Sunset from the school windows

              Other than that there are just the other little quirks that are associated with living overseas.  I sneakily managed to figure out if my students drink beer or think it’s a sin into a few of my lesson plans, and I must say that I am pleasantly surprised when they do, and can sense them being raised a few notches on my ‘this student is  a good person list’.  A little biased I am fully aware, but alas.  There have also been some charming disagreements with management (we try and avoid speaking to one of our bosses at all costs, although the others are fine) including working a six day week (again, Joe was given last minute notice as to a new class that put him on a six day week) and when I went to inform said boss that our contract clearly stated (twice) that we were working five day weeks (barring sickness or holiday or some other need to cover a class in which case we would be flexible).  He made a big deal of digging up the contract and finding it and then informing me that this was not how things were usually done (to which the smart mouth side of me wanted to reply that that was not my problem- I didn’t write the contract and I would have had absolutely no way of knowing how things were ‘usually done’ but I decided it would not be in my best interest to open my mouth) but he did say that they would fix the problem, so we shall wait and see if he plots some sort of revenge on that.  I will feel a lot more secure in the job once our work visas are firmly in place.  They have already tried to convince Joe that with our twelve month visa we would be here until next November- an idea Joe quickly nipped in the bud, but we shall see.  We didn’t expect to see a company more disorganised than EF and we have been unpleasantly surprised thus far.

Pay Day and Dinner Out

                   I have been enjoying coffee from my Grand Bazaar mug in the mornings!  They told me it was handcrafted, but for all I know it was produced in a factory in China and then passed off as one of a kind, but I prefer to assume they were telling me the truth when I bought it- and I did make sure to purchase one that didn’t have any similar designs sitting up on the shelves.  Joe and I arrived back home, and I went out to buy supplies to use my new spices for dinner (I followed one of my old and faithful recipes but added some Ottoman spice to it.  Worked out beautifully.)  We lazed about- showering off the tediously long journey and relaxing before having to head into work the next day.  We arrived, chatted with the staff, uploaded photos and caught up on internet stuff before I started lesson planning and Joe went home.  

              We weren’t to be paid until Friday leaving me- for the first time in my life- with about $15.00 (30 TL) to last me two days.  Now, this wasn’t the end of the world, but by the end of Wed, I was seriously considering spending 20TL on a bottle of wine and just not eating for a couple of days.  There have been ongoing visa issues- due to the spelling of my name- since we arrived in Turkey.  To make a long and tedious version slightly shorter, this has resulted in my needing a new birth certificate, new ‘parchments’ (not documents- be very careful in word usage) and the realization that Canadian bureaucracy is equally a big pain in the ass as Turkish bureaucracy.  My wonderful parents have been aiding me in every sense of the word with the filling out of forms, the long phone calls and the trips to SFU to attempt to sort all this out.  We discovered that although I authorized my father to drop off the ‘parchments’, I in fact didn’t authorize him to pick them up.  Apparently a lot of fake dads (with the same last name as students) try and pick up parchments for no reason, thus meriting this kind of ‘security’ check.  Alas, when I re-emailed them, my use of the word ‘parchments’ was ambiguous (I referred to them as documents), resulting in my clogging up the inbox at SFU simply so they could be handed over to the person who was already authorized to drop them off.  Tedious- and keep in mind there is a slight time crunch.  Alas, all that has come through and now all there is to do is wait and pray that the documents (the originals now have to be mailed over- much to my utter dismay and fear at their loss and repetition of this entire process) make it safe and sound to Turkey.  

   

                 By the time payday arrived (I was practical and sustained from buying a bottle of wine), we were ready for a nice meal out and a beer run.  We went into the school to finish lesson planning and patiently wait until 2 pm (it had been nine weeks since I was last paid- the longest I have gone without a steady income in many a moon).  During that time, we were messaging Mustafa (I mentioned him before – we met on a bus) and he informed us that we were invited to his house for dinner and that rejection of any sort would be met with resentment.  He was joking, but we got the point.  Although this threw a wrench in otherwise lovely evening plans, we agreed to go. 

            Now normally we would bring a bottle of wine to dinner, but one does not do that with a Muslim family, so we decided to pick up a bouquet of flowers.  I told the saleslady my price point (as I have no idea what the names of flowers are in Turkish) and she put together a beautiful bouquet of flowers, complete with ladybug stickers, glitter and perfume…  Joe and I were both confused about the perfume as flowers typically have a lovely scent, and this spray made the odor unbearable.  We picked up a couple beers, grabbed a donair, and tried not to smell the flowers the whole way home.  We had about an hour to relax before heading off to dinner, and Mustafa met us at the edge of his complex.  Only about 300m away, it has about fifteen towers or so.  We followed him to find his daughter, Asya (who is about 7) and then went upstairs.  In Turkish culture, you leave your shoes outside the door and then Asya went and brought us ‘house shoes’.  Due to the prime minster being in town, his wife (Sibel) was running late, so while Asya watched TV, we went onto the balcony and has a Turkish/English discussion about linguistics which was a lot of fun.  Joe and I also made faces at Asya everytime we saw her looking at us, and she would smile and wave.  

              Sibel came home and frantically started cooking- as I have mentioned before, it is a very male dominated culture here and the men don't cook or clean. ( I felt terrible, but she wouldn’t let me help, and she didn’t speak English so it was hard to convince her otherwise.)  Dinner was a mixture of small fish (kinda like anchovies- don’t know the name for them) battered and baked, salad, bread and the best pickles ever.  There were no dinner plates- just forks to transfer food from communal plates to your mouth- and a small plate for the fish bones. Conversation ranged from politics to philosophy to religion to language to relationships and jokes.  

              Mustafa is an excellent conversationalist, and his wife (a philosophy major) was quite interesting when he helped translate for her.  We ignored their protests and helped clear the table, and then Sibel made Turkish coffee (the best Turkish coffee we have had- a special brand that you can only buy in certain shops) and they smoked like chimneys on the balcony and we continued chatting.  After coffee was tea (lots of tea) and although Joe and I had to work early the next morning, we didn’t manage to leave until about 11:30 pm.  Sibel waited at the door until we were out of sight (Turks never close the door until they can no longer see their company)  Mustafa walked us home and Joe asked him about the conflict in Kobane (it is very interesting to her Turks opinions on the matter.) and he said that he would worry about it if they got in and made it Ulfa (the big town between here and the border).  Until then it was Ulfa’s problem.  Turks are very private people, not willing to get into the affairs of others willingly, although the Kurds are more willing to fight, and they firmly seem to believe their government is right in staying out of it.  Granted we haven't talked to any Kurds, although I imagine their opinions differ.

            When we got back to the house, there were police cars everywhere.  Mustafa greeted them with a traditional Arabic/Islamic greeting (to get on their good side he said) and there were crowds of people outside one of the towers- including the mayor.  Mustafa deduced that someone must have died (been martyred) in the fighting near Kobane and that they were either bringing his body back (why all the helicopters are flying overhead all the time) or informing the family.  Either way, it was a rather dramatic end to the night and the closest we have come (and probably will come) to the conflict itself.  It didn't mar the evening though.  It merely cemented the fact that we are not in Kansas anymore.

               It was a lovely evening of Turkish hospitality at it's finest.

** I'm sorry there are not many photos.  I do not know Mustafa or Sibel well enough yet to be comfortable asking if I could take photos of them.

A Tale of Two Continents: Part 3

                          Our last day began routinely, breakfast, showers, relaxing, only with the added bonus of packing.  We dropped off our stuff at reception, had her call the bus company to figure out where we were catching the bus from, and then headed out.  We went to the Blue Mosque first to wait in that monstrosity of a line (to be fair it moved at a decent pace) for 45 min (not  nearly as long as it can get) before they closed for call to prayer.  I put on my head covering (all women need to- men long pants) and then we headed in.  

Entering the Blue Mosque

                After the Hagia Sophia, it was a bit underwhelming, but still impressive none the less. Fortunetley it is free, as you really don’t need to spend much time in there.

The Blue Mosque

  

             We headed to the Basilica Cistern next for that line (only about half an hour) and paid the 20TL entry free (although it is neat down there) found the statues of Medusa, drank tea and then headed for lunch.  I had the Izgara Kofte and Joe had fajitas.  Although  I wish I had the eggplant dish again, as I can easily get Izgara Kofte in Malatya but have been unable to find Hunkar Begendi yet (although I will be undergoing a search upon return, and have also looked up the recipe to attempt to make it at home, so fingers crossed it will be eaten again soon).  We reclaimed our stuff from the hotel, and walked to the Metro (a couple km) instead of taking the tram. 

Joe and I in the Bailica Cistern

          The bus station was uneventful: boring killing time.  The most exciting moment was when my limited Turkish paid off to help us figure out where we were going (granted I think the nice man’s hand gestures paid off more than his words, but I was pleased with myself nonetheless)  We watched a couple shows that Joe had downloaded whilst waiting, and then Temple of Doom helped kill the first few hours out of Istanbul.  Our bus attendant didn’t  speak English, so he gave us little notes explaining what was happening.  After we awoke, and he called Joe for a conversation, we discovered that his girlfriend is an English teacher and he had been calling her to find out what the expressions were so we would understand.  Turkish hospitality is beautiful sometimes.  Although leg room wasn’t as plentiful on this bus, it was a better sleep than the way there, and Southern Turkey had beautiful landscape to watch as we passed the last few hours.  All in all a successful trip.

Basilica Cistern

Things I wish I had known before Istanbul:

1.                  1.   Be careful with prices.  All the restaurants have their prices listed outside the restaurant, and although we got good deals, I would have been pained to pay 40TL for Hunkar Begendi instead of the 26TL I actually paid.  That little bit of extra wandering pays off, but be prepared to spend.

2.                 2.There is a museum pass!  You can pay (I forget how much) for 5 days of access to all the museums!  We didn’t know this until it was too late, and in turn missed out on Topkapi Palace and a few other museums that looked quite interesting.

3.                  3. While shopkeepers are less abusive than say Mexico, they are more subtley manipulative: particularliy in the sale of carpets.  In attempting to be not be rude, I had to be quite rude to one in order to get us out of the shop, leaving a sour taste in my mouth, and I’m sure in his as well.

4.                     4.(A lesson from Malatya) Corner stores that sell beer and wine have a blue sign on them.  It looks like an Effs beer logo but without the name on it.  Much cheaper than the restaurants.

5.                     5.  Be prepared to stand in line.  We found lines started to get bad after 11am (I suppose most people are enjoying their Turkish breakfasts) but for the Blue Mosque and the Galata Tower specifically, try and get there around 10am if you don’t want to wait longer than an hour.

6.                     6.  Try the borek from the back stands.  Cheap, delicious and filling.  Can’t go wrong.

7.                   7. Wander aimlessly.  Joe and I discovered a lovely seaside walk this way, and the back streets are pretty nifty.

8.               8. If you are travelling elsewhere in Turkey afterwards, you may want to save some experiences (like a Turkish bath or buying a carpet) for somewhere slightly less touristy.  Beware of prices given in euros or dollars.  There are better deals if you go to the source rather than book it from someone off the street.

9.              9.  Embrace the crowds.  They are insane.  One can see how Istanbul is such a touristy city, but the effect can be mildly claustrophobic at times.  See point 7 as a way to avoid them a little.

1       .   10. Enjoy!  Istanbul is a very cool city.  Well worth the trip.

A Tale of Two Continents: Part 2

Topkapi Gardens

Topkapi Gardens

            



















We awoke slightly more refreshed on Saturday, ate breakfast at the hotel (a poor imitation of the gloriousness that is a Turkish breakfast, but free food is free food and we can always eat a good one back in Malatya for half the price) and then, armed and ready with our jackets and cameras, we hit the city.  
          

Joe and I in the gardens.

Very cool green parrot.

            Although it wasn’t raining (thank heavens) it was also very grey outside- not masking the beauty of Istanbul, but not enhancing it in photos either.  We headed to the gardens at Topkapi Palace first and spent a good hour wandering through.  We couldn’t get in (we think due to Bayram) so we decided to try again later.  It was the same at the Ayasofia, and the Blue Mosque had a line that far exceeded my patience levels. (Apparently it was cruise ship day and all the day trippers were out and about) so Joe and I decided to head to the little Ayasofia and have lunch.  

Blue Mosque

Hagia Sophia

Actually, we were just wandering away from the tourist hords and stumbled on the little Ayasofia by happy coincidence, but that version isn’t as glamorous.  We  had lunch (sans booze) at a little café- I had the Iskendar kebab (apparently a favourite of Alexander the Great) and Joe had chicken stew. Both pleasant dishes, although my eggplant one is still winning.  

Chicken Stew

Iskender Kebab

We finished lunch up with Turkish tea and then headed to the water.  We did a beautiful seawall walk with the looming city overhead, and the ancient walls bright and crumbling beside us.  It was a beautiful walk indeed.  We took an afternoon siesta, and then headed back out for dinner (lots of fun- Joe had this amazing kofte thing and I ordered a fish dish- and we used our limited Turkish with the waiters: much to their amusement).  They gave us free tea, and we hit up a couple more restaurants for beer (I would say pub crawl, but it was a restaurant with beer crawl) and then called it a night.

Seaside walk.

Joe making friends

By Day 3 we were starting to get a bit tired.  The fish dinner I had indulged in the night before was sitting a bit funny, but alas.  We headed down for breakfast, then got ready and headed out across the Galata Bridge to the other (still European) side of the river.  We followed signs, climbed a giant hill, and found the Galata Tower. Since it is one of the oldest and most beautiful towers in Istanbul, with stunning 360 degree views of Istanbul and the Bosphorus, (built as a lighthouse in 528, and then rebuilt in stone in 1348 to be captured by the Turks in 1453) it also has a queue reflecting this.  Fortunetely Joe and I were there early enough that we didn’t have to wait too long.  We paid our 20TL each to get to the top, and enjoyed the panorama immensely.  By the time we descended, we found a quaint and pricey little coffee shop to grab an Americano, and then headed back down to the Bosphorus.  

Views from Galata Tower

More views

             We had been talking about doing a boat cruise down the river to see the Maiden’s Tower, the Bridges, and a couple of palaces and castles we were running out of time to see.  All the tours by the Hagia Sophia, etc were averaging prices of 40 Euros per person (which seemed like a lot) but as we wandered through the harbour, the prices dropped significantly.  We hopped on a  boat that was about to leave, paid 10TL each, found decent seats at the front and were off on a two hour journey.  Granted if you pay more, I think they have running commentary, but all you really need is a map and to do your research before and then you can be your own running commentary. 

               

Famous Palace I can't remember the name of.

Mosque

Maiden's Tower

             By the time we got back to dry land, we were quite hungry.  We found a cheap (albeit delicious) borek shop just outside the touristy areas (I have missed borek since I was introduced to its fabulousness in Albania) and dined for the wonderful price of 4TL per person.  We still had to go into the Basilica Cistern, but upon viewing the line, we decided to go spice shopping, have a rest and then try again later.  I bought five fabulous spices (upon much hemming and hawing) that I cant find in Malatya and am very pleased to experiment with a couple of new ones (Ottoman Spice and Kofte Spice) as well as the old faithfuls (Tumeric, Garam Masala and Corriander.)   An hour or so later, we were refreshed and ready to go.  The line for the Basilica Cistern was still lengthy, and as the Hagia Sophia would be closed on Monday, we decided to give it a shot.  This was the most expensive tourist attraction we saw (at 30TL) but well worth the money.  While the Ayasofya doesn’t look overly impressive from the outside, the inside was to die for, and the history along with it. (Again they charge 20TL for a headset so do your own research ahead of time if you don’t want to get ripped off).  

Hagia Sophia

View of Blue Mosque from inside Ayasofya

               We headed for dinner, and shared the Testi Kebab: cooked in a ceramic jar in front of you and then broken and served for your enjoyment.  It is a two person dinner, ranging from 75TL to 40TL (we managed to find a 40TL place) and just goes to show the price range difference just by walking two blocks off the main drags.  We called it a night after our fabulous meal, heading back to the hotel to rest before our final day.

Testi Kebab

A Tale of Two Continents: Part 1

                Crossing continents via transportation that is not an airplane was a first for me as Joe and I made the hideously long(er than anticipated) bus journey from Malatya to Istanbul.  This was due in part to the 45 min roadside engine trouble stop but the other (more) frequent (than I would have liked) stops for tea along the way were also not appreciated- particularly the one at 2:30am where they turned on all the lights and dulcet Turkish recordings, informing us of are stop- came over the intercom.  By the time we neared Istanbul, we were making quite a few stops to drop people off, and as Joe and I had been told to get off at the last stop, we had to wait quite awhile.  We made it to the bus stop, managed to locate the metro station- which took us to the tram line and then from there to our hotel.  We are staying in a very touristy area- only about a ten minute walk to the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Baslica Cistern, Topkani Palace and the Galeta Bridge.  The hotel itself is small and nothing to write home about, but the price and location are superb, so all in all it works out.  As we arrived, we were told that because of Bayram, the Grand Bazaar and Spice Markets would be closed.  This was a sad realization, but the receptionist called a friend and it turned out they were still open that day only.  Joe and I quickly put our stuff in the room and headed to the Grand Bazaar (about a 20min walk) sprawling through the covered market- a person could easily become lost, too dazzled by the colours and smells and sounds to pay attention to where one’s feet are going.  We didn’t buy much (I bought a mug, Joe another bracelet to add to his spreading collection) but you have to say ‘I bought this at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul’ about something.

             

Entrance to the Grand Bazaar

   It was about this point we realized we hadn’t eaten all day (it was about 3pm) and so we headed out to find a restaurant.  The food prices in Istanbul are shocking (about double what we pay in Malatya) which was a bit of a mental adjustment, but they do serve beer and wine most places so that’s a plus.  I got the Sultan’s favourite (lamb and tomato stew on eggplant puree) which is possibly the best restaurant meal I have had since last Christmas- it was superb, and Joe got kofte- always a crowd pleaser.  

Joe was really excited about the beer.

Hünkar Beğendi: The Sultan's favourite

Kofte

After lunch we headed to the Spice Market- wandering through back roads until we found it.  It was absolutely mobbed (Istanbul is a mirage of tourists and languages- and while it is exciting to hear so many languages- it is also a little overwhelming at times.) so we just pushed our way through, stopping ocassionaly (Joe bought some Turkish delight) and then coming out by the water and the New Mosque.  By this point we were pretty wiped from our days adventures and lack of bus sleep, so we headed back to the hotel, watched a movie, and called it a night.

Spice Market