The First Week

                    We have been in Malatya exactly one week although in some ways it feels much longer.  After figuring out the basics (how to take the bus, how to say hello and thank you and other basic Turkish phrases that we still aren’t sure we are saying correctly) there have been subtle differences and I can’t help but compare Malatya to other places that I have lived.  One of the main things is the mosque.  In Indonesia, the mosques went off at 4:00am, 12:00pm, 3:00pm, 6pm, and 7pm, although they would occasionally last for a whole hour or sometimes longer depending on the day and prerogative of the emam.  In Malatya, they tend to go off an hour later than the ones in Jakarta (which I am assuming has something to do with the sun, but my knowledge of Islam is still lacking).  Also, due to the colouring of Turks, Joe and I stand out a lot less than we did in Indonesia, which means no one yells at us, no one stares at us, and other than our eye colours and the fact that we don’t speak Turkish, it is hard to differentiate us. 

               

                This has been a bit tricky as we don’t immediately stand out as foreigners, but the store keepers have been very friendly with our lack of language ability, generally laughing or smiling and aiding us in whatever way they can to help us get our point across.  We have braved a couple of cafes, but typically end up ordering donairs or the like because it is the easiest thing to explain to the staff.  The other main difference (for me) is the amount of people that are out and about in the streets.  They are packed with people at all hours of day, walking, shopping and enjoying the fresh air.  It is a marvelous change that allows you to feel more a part of the culture just simply by being in it.  Malatya (like everywhere in Turkey) is an old city, although the city that we are living in has only been around since 1838.  Historically the city was a major producer of opium, although nowadays it is known throughout Turkey for its apricot production.

               

               Stray animals howl at night (reminding me of the dogs in Albania) and the roosters crow not just at dawn, making them considerably more irritating than the mosque and we look out the window at the yards trying to figure out where they are situated and if it would be possible to throttle them without the owners realizing- a feat I doubt we will attempt but is fun to fantasize over nonetheless.  Day to day life moves at a steady yet enjoyable pace thus far, and although the days can be uncomfortably hot, the evenings generate a blustering breeze that makes the temperature very enjoyable.  We have yet to meet the neighbours, but a plethora of children play outside in the evenings, and I am on smile and nod terms with the produce man downstairs and the lovely woman who works the beer and wine section of the grocery store: both important people and I am very pleased with that progress.

               

             In the apartment we still have things to sort out: the lack of internet is becoming a real pain in the rear end, as the internet at the school is too bogged down to successfully Skype or research or merely browse the web, but hopefully our residency permits will be here soon and we will be able to fix that.  Having successfully navigated the Turkish washing machine and gotten a kettle, things are getting easier.  The school is going to have our area rugs washed, and I still have to brave cleaning the oven- baby steps.  I have only really been cooking breakfast anyways so I am in no rush.

               

             Food is delicious and monotonous.  If you don’t like onions, tomatoes or bread you would have big problems in this city.  Fortunately, I enjoy all these things, but my palate is used to a veritable smorgus board of culinary delights, and I do not see that being fulfilled in Turkey.  Naturally I have taken into consideration that my Turkish cuisine vocab is still lacking and that a wider option may be available in a few weeks, but at the moment it is definitely a comparison of the different types of donairs and whether or not there is too much parsley, or the bread is too chewy or the likes.  I will have to do some digging in the spice department and see how creative I can be with onions, tomatoes, cucumber, peppers and eggplant: the total sum of vegetables I have at my disposal in the shops.  It is a simple life that inspires more creativity than the concrete jungle of Jakarta and although I foresee some challenges,  but the lifestyle that comes with a city of half a million people ıs much quıeter, and although I have my misgivings about living so far from the city center, the views of the “outskirts” and the stars and storms allow breath and that is a welcome change.

** I took photos to attach to thıs blog but the lack of workable internet ıs doıng my head ın and the photos wont copy and for the sake of my sanıty you wıll have to waıt.  my apologıes.